新闻

09/21/2021

艺术遇上行动主义:迈克尔. 罗宾逊服装在遇到了联欢晚会上的惊艳

上周, 迈克尔年代. 罗宾逊, 艺术总监, was making finishing stitches on a stunning garment he created for Broadway producer 约旦罗斯 要穿到2021年 遇到了联欢晚会 那天晚上. 第二天, 他回保利工作了, 他的服装制作生涯是从哪里开始的, making decisions in preparation for the 上学校 play.


约旦罗斯 in a coat by 迈克尔年代ylvan 罗宾逊.Photo: Jamie McCarthy / MG21 / Getty Images for 大都会博物馆/时尚  

In Gala news articles, photo captions read, “约旦罗斯 in 迈克尔年代ylvan 罗宾逊.“对任何设计师来说,这都是令人兴奋的东西, but 罗宾逊 is an internationally acclaimed fiber artist and mixed media artist. 自2018年以来,他一直担任保利学院艺术系主任. Roth is the Tony-winning producer of Broadway shows such as Hadestown 和新的 经过 也是jujamyn剧院的总裁.

The 遇到了联欢晚会 is a fundraiser for its Costume Institute. This year’s Gala theme was “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.”

After a dress that 罗宾逊 had created was featured in 时尚德国, 男士版编辑, 迈克尔Philouze, suggested 罗宾逊 as a collaborator to Roth. 约旦罗斯 came to 罗宾逊’s home studio to talk about concepts. 在他被选为委员之后, 罗宾逊 collaborated on what Roth wanted the garment to express. “His intentions became the text of the garment,” 罗宾逊 said, including Roth’s own poetry. “我们在这个世界上穿着我们的身份,” 罗宾逊说,并补充道: “Identities are like clothes; they can be restrictive.” 致力于这个项目, 罗宾逊 said he felt a “personal resonance” as to gender identity and queer people in the world. He described the process as a “dazzling collaboration.”

迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服

The project began with design renderings and then went through five or six stages. 正式工作于7月4日以后开始. 罗宾逊 worked with four young costume designers from Rutgers’ Mason Gross School of the 艺术 graduate program in design and with Bill Bull, 一个专业的裁缝.

迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服

The garment designed for Roth is a great example of 罗宾逊’s textile work, which he has described as “art meets activism.” For Roth, 罗宾逊 created a full-length coat with a train that folds like peacock wings. Gold fabric served as the base for the garment. 在这个过程中, 罗宾逊为艺术品拍照, 比如波提切利的脸, 以及大都会博物馆最喜欢的雕像, 然后印在布料上. 他添加了亮片和布料. The garment, which 罗宾逊 describes as  “wearable art,”  also features eyes.  衣服本身包括粗体文字, 黑色的首都, “IDENTITY IS …” as well as Roth’s original poetry about identity. Built-in harnessing  supported the structure of the garment to make it easier to wear. 在遇到了联欢晚会那天, 罗宾逊 spent the final hours with 约旦罗斯 at the Mark Hotel, 一直缝到最后一刻.

“The experience of working in the theatre at Poly influenced who I have become as a professional.”

迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服特写

罗宾逊 credits Poly with giving him his start in costume making. He began teaching drama and art at what is now Poly’s 较低的学校 in 1990 and moved to the Dyker Heights campus in 1996 and served as a 中学 visual arts and performing arts teacher, 服装设计师和服装车间主管, 以及表演艺术暑期项目总监. 当罗宾逊于2018年回到保利时, he remarked that he was “especially grateful to Poly for investing in my professional development in costume design. The experience of working in the theatre at Poly influenced who I have become as a professional.给罗宾逊, ​the Richard Perry Theatre brings back great memories of life-changing opportunities and long hours putting finishing touches on costumes before opening night of an 上学校 musical. He credits 上学校 director Sonya Baehr as “an incredible mentor and guiding presence.还有罗宾逊在旁边学到的 大卫·海厄姆, Theatre Manager/Technical Director Stage Craft & Construction, “an incredible talent,” is immeasurable, he says.

It was at Poly that 罗宾逊 created his first dress. 那是20世纪90年代的一场舞蹈音乐会. “I had never used a sewing machine before that moment,” he said. 罗宾逊 had envisioned his future as a 中学 drama teacher. But Higham encouraged him to become a costume designer. When 罗宾逊 had the opportunity to go to graduate school, he promised himself he would take every opportunity to work on his own visual artwork.

In 2019, 鲁滨逊的作品之一, “金星上升,” was exhibited during Rome Art Week at Counterweave 艺术 in Rome. This was his first opportunity to share his work beyond the U.S. 也是那一年, 罗宾逊 was the Work In Progress artist at the Textile 艺术中心’s West Village studio in NYC.

迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服特写
迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服

This has been an exciting summer for 罗宾逊 and the commission for the garment for 约旦罗斯 was a “special, 高压, 和鼓舞人心的经历.“作为艺术系主任, 罗宾逊把爱传递出去, telling new teachers in the 艺术 Department that at Poly, we encourage artists to be able to say yes to opportunities to do their art on and off campus.

罗宾逊 shared that the 遇到了联欢晚会 experience brings him full circle at the Met. 在保利小学工作的时候, 罗宾逊 worked at the Met two days a week in retail, such as selling jewelry associated with a Frida Kahlo exhibit. A painting by 罗宾逊 was once included in an employee art exhibit there. So, 30 years before his exciting night at the 遇到了联欢晚会, 罗宾逊 had already had a painting exhibited at the Met!

“Michael is leading the most vibrant independent school arts program in New York City,校长说 Audrius Barzdukas P’20. “他把工作中的艺术家们编织在一起, 掌握教师, 可靠的网堵平台表演者, 专业的音乐家, and renowned academics into a teaching faculty and program that is a true tapestry of creativity and inspiration for our students. Poly 艺术 are on the rise and Michael is leading us to new heights. 我等不及要看山顶的景色了.”

迈克尔·罗宾逊遇到了联欢晚会礼服
关闭